A Return to Lindisfarne

No man is an island,

Entire of itself;

Every man is a piece of the continent, 

A part of the main.

John Donne

Islands have a significant effect upon the minds of many visitors, which can only be described as spiritual.  I do not use the term spiritual in a standard religious sense, although no doubt religious feelings play a part with some folk. My own spirit is touched by the light, the nature, the history, extensive skies and seas and often the community spirit.  I feel sure that Martin Martin will have had similar feelings during his tour of the Scottish Western Isles in 1697 and 1699 especially on his arrival at St Kilda.   Martin Martin later wrote A Description of the Western Islands of Scotland describing his experiences on the islands and incidentally, wrote early descriptions of Scotch Whisky.   Samuel Johnson and Boswell took a copy of Martin’s Book with them on their own tour of the islands.  I have no idea if this included the descriptions of Scotch Whisky, but I feel sure they will have tasted a variety of malts during their trip as there were not averse to a tipple or two.  More recently we have had TV programmes of visits to the Isles by Chris Packham and Ben Fogle, both of whom seemed spiritually moved by the trips.  I suppose the more cynical reader may say that in their case they were handsomely paid to be moved.

Lindisfarne

Sam and I made our return this week, and in our case it was to Lindisfarne, arguably not a true island at all, but for all intents and purposes it is, and it does certainly have that island feel.  In my mind Lindisfarne is every bit of an island as say Skye, which has its road bridge to the mainland.  I certainly had my spirits raised by the visit despite us not being alone.  Cars filled the causeway at times and the carpark was heaving.  Northumberland council must make a fortune at £7 to park for the day.  It’s just a pity they don’t spend some of the cash on filling the potholes in the field.  It is an exorbitant charge in my view.

We had stopped at Budle Bay on the journey north and found some good sightings in the bay including flocks of Brent Geese, Barnacle Geese and Pink footed Geese, along with large numbers of Shelduck, Shoveler, and Wigeon, a couple of Little Egrets, Lapwing, Oystercatchers, Grey Plover, Dunlin, Redshank, Curlew and Black tailed Godwit. Two or three Kestrels had been seen on the drive during which the rain had fallen as a constant drizzle, but happily stopped as we approached the coast and was felt no more during the day.

Brent Geese

We got our eye on Brent Geese close to the causeway on the mainland side, so pulled in to take a good look.  A Greenshank was heard flying in and it gave an excellent sighting on the opposite side of the causeway.  I doubt if many of the car passengers crossing to the island gave this wonderful bird a second, or even a first glance.  It was my bird of the day without doubt.  Greenshanks evoke thoughts of wilderness areas in my mind.  I remember the excellent book written by Desmond Nethersole Thompson after forty years of studying this species in Scotland.  I remember views on Desmond vary and are not all good ones, not least because of his egg collecting and opinionated views.  In my opinion any man who shows the passion for birds that Desmond had, along with the determination to study a species f. forty years is an alright guy, despite the faults.  Redshank and Curlew also approached as we watched the Brent Geese.  We moved on to ensure getting into the carpark.

Redshank

Curlew

It was the Lonnen we made for first, not least because this is where the Red eyed Vireo had been recorded.  A rare vagrant from North America and one which would prove to be a lifer for us both.  The area around the farm held numbers of House Sparrow, sadly seldom seen or heard these days, although thankfully still visiting my garden.  Redwings flew overhead, some of them lifting from an ample supply of berries along the hedges.

It was not too long before we had a decent if brief sighting of the very active Red eyed Vireo.   During our watch we had chatted to several birders all targeting the same bird.  More than one person pondered upon what would become of this bird.  Pleased though I was with this sighting it comes only third on my birds of the day list, although I am pleased to add it to my life list.  The Greenshank and Brent Geese were not to be beaten.

The day was not one which offered a heavy fall of migrants.  We did find numbers of Roe Deer, Goldcrests, Wren, Chaffinch, Skylarks and Meadow Pipits.  Brambling was heard calling from afar, and Sam picked up the sound of Golden Plover before we watched them lift and fly murmuration style in good numbers.

Walking past the dunes and onwards towards the lough there were few birds to be seen.  A look across the sea did provide Grey Seal and several immature Gannets and Shag.  Our minds turned to unnamed but attractive fungi, remains of Grass of Parnassus, the attractive disc like leaves of Marsh Pennywort and Spleenwort growing on the dry-stone walls.  Having reached the lough, we found it very quiet apart from good numbers of Wigeon, Mute Swans and Shoveler there was little else of note.  As we walked on towards the village a Kestrel atop of a post gave an excellent sighting, but just like it neither of us had brought the necessary lens to capture an image.  Lapwings called from the fields to our right and they were accompanied by a few Curlews.  Our final stop was at the harbour where we enjoyed an ice-cream.  Ringed Plover, Grey Plover, Dunlin, Redshank and Bar tailed Godwits were seen here.  In the channel behind we watched Red Throated Diver, Guillemot, Eider Duck, Cormorant.  Pied Wagtail picked at the sea weeds.

Spleenwort

We walked back to the car well pleased with our excellent day on atmospheric Lindisfarne and having managed to avoid the crowds.  I treated myself to a tub of comb honey which was expensive at £6.50, but not daylight robbery as was the parking charge!

Having decided on having a meal on the way home we found most places packed and neither of us fancied fish and chips today.  We finally found space at the Masons Arms in Warkworth.  I’d almost fallen asleep in the car so a very nice meal served in a nice atmosphere by very friendly staff woke me up.  Our desert was another ice-cream.  Hey, come on, you must live dangerously sometimes.  Having not walked so far for quite some time I began to stiffen up but a hot bath prior to my head hitting the pillow worked wonders.  Life felt normal, and long may that feeling last. 

Birds, Boots and Boats

The morning began like a Dad’s Army sketch and I almost heard Corporal Jones calling ‘don’t panic, don’t panic’ as I frantically searched every room and cupboard in the house for my boots.  I decided to look in the recycling bin as a last resort (don’t ask), and there they were.  Having checked for vermin and noted that they smelt no worse than normal, I was ready for the off towards the coast.  Disaster had been narrowly avoided, as the bin was collected the following morning.

Arriving at Hartley we found the sea as still and calm as a mill pond, and the close in Bottle Nosed Dolphins showed very well.  A blue phase Fulmar was soon spotted close to the cliff edge.  The last one of these I had seen was on a Martin Kitching pelagic and as a coincidence one of his tours was on the sea today.  We had a short walk and there was not a hint of wind.  Other birds seen included large rafts of Guillemot and Razorbill, Red Throated Divers, Common Scoter, Eider Duck, Cormorants and Gulls.  There was some thought that a distant skua was a Pomarine Skua, but we weren’t certain.  Oystercatchers were heard, Curlew seen and the Golden Plover had amassed on St Mary’s Island.

Blue Clipper

What really caught the eye today, and the eye of several others, was the two Tall Ships leaving Blyth harbour.  Sam managed to find their names on his app, the second one was the Blue Clipper, a three masted gaff rig schooner, which has ten sails with an area of 675m².  It was built in Sweden in 1991.  This was the ship that really caught the eye.  It was a stunning sight and would have been even more stunning had the upper sails been raised, but as there was no wind that was going to be unlikely.

My mind wandered back to my teenage years when I was a crew member on a rather smaller, but no less exciting sailing ship of the name Equinoxe, a 60ft gaff cutter.  I’d won a place as a crew member through a Daily Mirror competition and we embarked from Hamble, Hampshire, and visited Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight, Alderney and Cherbourg, France.  During the evenings we were able to visit the flesh pots of each place, well, we did spend one evening at a disco at Cherbourg.  I have no recollection as to how we found that but I do remember enjoying French fries earlier in the day.  One special bit of excitement occurred on our return in the dark at Alderney when the anchor began to drag which nearly had us floating out of control into the Channel.  I had no real interest in ornithology as a teenager so may have missed some good birding during the trip.  I wonder what the years have brought the other crew members.  Happy days and innocent fun.  It came as quite a shock when I realised this was 51 years ago, but happily I retain my good looks!

A teenage Killy on the Equinoxe 1970

My fellow crew members at Cherbourg.  All good kids.

Last week Sam and I visited Cresswell, East Chevington and Newbiggin.  The day began rather damp and misty, but quickly improved so that we were soon in the sun.  It was good to see the water level at Cresswell Pond low and thus there was plenty of birdlife.  I had thought we would have the hide to ourselves, but it was full.  It was nice to chat to a Scottish couple down here on holiday.  They had been Munro baggers in years gone by but the walking has become too tough.  Join the club I thought.

I got my eye on a large female Sparrowhawk standing in front of the reed bed which everyone else had missed.  One guy just couldn’t find it in his binoculars and it eventually flew off without him seeing it.  A young Marsh Harrier flew for some time over the fields to the west of the hide.  Waders included 2 Greenshank, Avocet, Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Golden Plover, Dunlin, Redshank, Curlew, Bar tailed Godwit, Black tailed Godwit and Common Snipe.  There was a Pink footed Goose amongst the Greylags and a Barnacle Goose amongst the Canada Geese.  Little Egrets were present and duck species included growing numbers of Wigeon.

We had a good sighting of a Spoonbill feeding at Druridge Pools and at East Chevington Great Crested Grebe, Little Grebe and Ruff were present, but these two areas were generally quiet.  We made an ice cream stop as we passed Cresswell on our return.

Newbiggin provided a skein of Brent Geese flying north, and other birds included a Black Guillemot briefly seen by Sam.

It had been good to be out and about with some good birds seen and still quite a bit of botanical interest to note.  My boots are safely put away in the cupboard until the next outing and my mind remains intact.

Harts Tongue Fern on path to hide Creswell

Tansies also on same path

Having watched so many Guillemots and Razorbills just off the shoreline it is not good news to hear that they are being washed up dead in large numbers on the east coast.  It seems uncertain as yet what the cause is for what appears to be starvation and unusual behaviour in that some have been found miles upriver.  Harmful algal blooms affecting the food chain has been one possible explanation.

 

 

  

Dragons, Damsels, Butterflies, Orchids and Proud Parents

 

Every so often and often unexpectedly, special time is spent in a special place, and the sun shines.  Today was one of those occasions.  We had decided rather than traveling to explore habitats near Kielder that our time would be spent closer to home.  What a wise choice this turned out to be.  I will not name the locality, but local naturalists will I’m sure work it out for themselves.

Large Red Damselfly on Northern Marsh Orchid

As we approached the lane leading to the rather unusual and almost hidden entrance a Common Buzzard flew overhead and Speckled Wood Butterflies flew from the hedge.  We entered via the gate come fence and found utopia, and were immediately surrounded by the song of Willow Warblers.  We had the area to ourselves for the next few hours apart from a family calling by to count the cygnets.  I completely forgot that there was a busy road nearby and I even cut out the sound of artillery fire which had initially made me feel as though we were entering an ongoing conflict.

Mute Swan and cygnets

Little Grebe carrying young

The Mute Swan pen stood sentinel like over her brood, and the hissing threat aimed towards us made sure that we understood not to approach too closely.  I don’t like the use of the term cute to be used in respect of wildlife, but I suppose I could make an exception in this case.  The cob of the pair was energetically washing and preening in the centre of the pond.  I watched the brood climb from the water and settle on the grass.  They were not the only family of birds here.  A Little Grebe carried her young across the water of the larger of the two reed bordered ponds and a pair of Canada Geese guarded their one youngster.  We kept our distance so that none of these birds were in any way disturbed.

Four spotted Chaser Dragonfly

The odonata caught the eye as soon as we approached the larger pond and initially it was the large number of Four-spotted Chaser Dragonflies that caught the eye.  After a while we saw the continually active Emperor Dragonfly, male and female flying together at one point.  I was unable to catch an image in flight, but did eventually find a female ovipositing and managed a rather distant image, which I do think shows the size of wings to good effect.  As Sam said at the time, I’m pleased that these dragonflies are not two feet long.  It is believed that prehistoric Dragonflies had wingspans of well over two foot.  Damselflies were there in great number and included Azure, Common Blue, Blue-tailed and Large Red Damselflies.

Four spotted Chaser Dragonfly

Azure Damselfly

Emperor Dragonfly ovipositing.

Having seen the Speckled Wood Butterflies as we approached the area, other butterflies recorded were Common Blue, Small Tortoiseshell, Peacock, Red Admiral and Meadow Brown.  A Cinnamon Moth lifted as we approached.

Common Blue Butterfly

We found a Great Crested Newt, but sadly a dead one.

I tell you this newt isn't pissed, it is dead! 

There was much botanical interest, but it was the orchids that stole the show.  I cannot ever remember seeing such an abundance of Northern Marsh Orchids in such a small area.  They far outnumbered the Common Spotted Orchids and there were many fine specimens.  No doubt amongst them were some hybrids.

A naturalist at work

The stars of the days extraordinarily strong cast were the Bee Orchids.  I have certainly never seen Bee Orchids in such number.  Sam’s initial count of spikes was 17, later updated to 28.   I pondered over these exotic, and so finely adapted orchids and how the flowers have evolved to look like bees, and had similar thoughts as I had had when a few days earlier had considered the plate structure of the Fulmar’s bill.  By strange twist of fate, The Bee Orchid is rarely pollinated by Bees, as it simply relies upon slight breezes to blow the hanging pollinia onto the sticky stigma which leads to self-pollination.   One can understand why so many plant hunters who have travelled the world in search of rare orchids, have on occasion become completely obsessed by them.  Such interesting and often beautiful plants, the orchids form probably the largest flowering plant family.

Bee Orchid

I left feeling, as I usually do, having been out in the field, that I am a half glass full man.  It is best to remain positive as to what wonderful habitat, flora and fauna can still be found close to home, this despite the attempts of those in power to allow building on every patch of green land available.  I have restricted myself to mentioning the orchids only on this occasion despite other interesting flora in the area.

Bee Orchid

A quick visit to Arcot Pond provided the call of Lesser Whitethroat, but little else.  Having enjoyed visits to this area in years gone by, I was rather disappointed on this occasion.

Black tailed Skimmer Dragonflies in tandem.  Kibblesworth, as are following images.

Four spotted Chaser Dragonfly on Yellow Flag Iris.

Four spotted Chaser Dragonfly

A few days later we spent a short time south of the river at Kibblesworth Ponds where again we found grassland and pools providing a good array of plants, insects and birdsong.  I have added a few more images by way of a bonus.

Scorpion Fly Pamorphidae

Common Blue Butterfly finding nutrient in the mud.

Five spot Burnet Moth

Small Heath Butterfly

 

Evening Coastal Nature Walk

Trips far afield are not necessary to enjoy nature, and this evening’s meander around the area of Hartley and surrounds is proof of that.  On reflection I feel had I the need to introduce an individual to the rewards of showing an interest in Natural History, this evening would have been a perfect beginning.  There was just sufficient entomological, mammalian, avian and botanical interest so as not to blow the mind with numbers and confusion, yet sufficient to allow real interest, excitement, and time to watch, study and take in the surrounding flora and fauna in a relaxing manner.  Very often less is more when it comes to studying nature.  The North Sea appeared flat and still, the air pellucid, the temperature controlled by cooling sea air, and there was a feeling of peace and calm.

Fulmars

We initially walked a little way north to see the Fulmars and ended up spending a relaxing time in the company of these wonderfully evolved long distance travelling seabirds.  They obviously felt very safe on the cliff and were not at all phased by our proximity.  As well as the birds close by us on the cliff we watched as numbers of other Fulmars flew on straight and stiff wings above the edge of the cliff.  The pinkness of the Thrift was already fading, but it still formed a carpet in places forward of a background of rock, sea and sky.

On the way to the Fulmar site a pair of mating Seven Spot Ladybirds, a Soldier Beetle and a large patch of I think Common Fumitory had been found.  As we turned to walk southwards a Carpet Moth, that give no sign of moving, was an ideal subject for photography.  The colour of the ladybirds was striking and of course a warning to possible predators of the poisons these insects contain.  The ladybirds can release foul tasting fluids from their legs.  A voracious eater of aphids, this species of Ladybird, our most common, has been imported on occasions into the USA to act as on insectivore on valuable crops.  Each wing casing, the elytra, has three spots and another spot which overlaps both casings.  This is one of the larger ladybirds and it can travel 1,000 metres in search of food and suitable habitat.  It may surprise some folk that there are 47 different species of Ladybird in the UK and Ireland.

Mating Seven Spot Ladybirds

Soldier Beetle

Silver-ground Carpet Moth

I remembered that whilst living his latter years in an asylum John Clare wrote many poems including (not one of his best) Clock-a-Clay, an alternative name for Ladybird.  This stems from an old Northamptonshire belief that you can tell time from the number of taps on the ground it takes to make a ladybird flyaway.

As we checked out plants along the cliff and grassland we also watched seven Bottled Nosed Dolphins  on the flat calm sea as they travelled north in two groupings.  The conditions were ideal for watching, and this was one of the highlights of the evening.  Birds were never forgotten and perhaps the finest bird sighting of the evening was three Manx Shearwaters skirting the water as they flew south.  Other seabirds seen included small flocks of calling Oystercatcher, Gannets, Kittiwakes, Puffins, Guillemots, Common Scoter and a raft of Eider Ducks.

I never tire of the view towards St Mary’s Island and this evening showed it at its best, with the lighthouse reflected across the water and large ships in the background making towards the entrance of the River Tyne.

As we passed by one of the mounds we bumped into Ray, who it turned out was not only a regular reader of this blog but also, almost a neighbour of mine, living on the same estate.  Having had a long chat, we said our farewells and I said I would give him a mention and so I keep my word.  As we chatted we watched a Common Whitethroat displaying, and later found out the pair had young and we eventually saw the entire family.  This pair was of one of two or three in the immediate area.  Reed Bunting, Skylark and Meadow Pipit were among other species seen and heard.   

By now the evening atmosphere was one of tranquillity and stillness which clearly encourage a buck and doe Roe Deer to feel relaxed out in the exposed field.  Both seemed in peak condition which was reflected in the condition of their colourful coat.  By the way the buck was scent tasting and approaching a none too keen doe, it appeared that the doe was in heat.  It is not often one can watch Roe Deer so well.  We agreed whilst watching these small deer that there is a tendency to imagine them larger than in fact they are.

Common (??) Fumitory

Three plants that in particular caught the attention were Common Fumitory (or was it Common-ramping Fumitory), White Campion and Sea Plantain.  The former plant took my interest because I had recently wondered why I had never seen fumitories.  The latter plant, and plantains in general, are easy to pass by, but I do find them incredibly attractive plants.  Sea Plantain is adapted to stand up to harsh coastal conditions and can survive short periods under water.  The taproot extends deep into the ground acting as an anchor and the narrow slightly waxy leaves can survive the constant sea spray.  The White Campion's  calyx is formed by fused sepals.

Sea Plantain

White Campion

As we made off towards home, the calm evening was still warm and bright.  The journey was broken by a stop to listen for Quail.  None were heard on this occasion, but what a wonderful evening it had been. 

Ninety-nine and Lifer Ends Day

 It had been a long day in the field, so some refreshment in the shape of a ninety-nine ice cream was most welcome before we made off to our last stop of the day at Newbiggin.  I can recommend the ice cream parlour at Cresswell, which my father visited with his cycling club in the 1930s.  Cresswell must have had a vastly different feel to it all those years ago.  I learned from the owner that the parlour first opened in 1932 but that he had been owner a mere ten years.  After a refreshing few minutes we made off on what is the nearest to twitching I ever do in the hope of seeing the Rose-coloured Starling.  This twitching lark is amazingly easy I reckon, as no sooner had we parked the car we found our target bird perched and waiting for us.  Giving a little time we had excellent sightings as the bird came out into the open.  A lifer for Sam and a UK tick for me.  I have seen the species more distantly only once before and that was in Romania within the bird’s more natural range.  It seemed content to be alone until eventually joining the small Starling flock.  I have some empathy, as in general I too feel happier away from the flock, especially when enjoying nature.

Rose Coloured Staring courtesy of Samuel Hood

We had begun the day close to home at Gosforth Park Nature Reserve.  Oh, how the reserve is changing, with the work done to improve a meadowland area paying great dividends, walkways repaired and work going on for a new centre which will have some empathise on encouraging youngsters’ interest in nature.  I would guess that there are many more visitors to the reserve than in past years, but it has lost none of its atmosphere and I would encourage anyone local, with the slightest interest in Natural History, to join the Natural History Society of Northumbria.  Botanical interest was the primary reason for the visit and in particular a wish to photograph Coralroot Orchid.  Sadly, it has been another poor year for this orchid and we were unable to find any, although we did find a developing Broad Leave Helleborine, Early Purple Orchid, Northern Marsh Orchid, Common Spotted Orchid and what we think were hybrids.  It could be argued all of these are more attractive than the insipid Coralroot Orchid, but to a large extent what attracts us is the rarity and the fact that it is largely dependent on nutrients it obtains from the fungi associated with the surrounding trees.  This orchid gives nothing in return so is therefore parasitic.

At the reserve we we greeted by the manager, volunteers and a posing spider.

Along the pathway

Yellow Flag Iris

Many other plants took our interest as did Orange Tip Butterfly, Common Blue, Blue-tailed and Large Red Damselfly, Grey Squirrel and birds seen and heard included Reed Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Garden Warbler, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff, Bullfinch and Grey Heron.  Admittedly, we gave little attention to the birds in general whilst in the reserve.

Emerging Broad Leaved Helleborine

Having spent longer than planned at the reserve we made off for Amble where we watched over the sea towards Coquet Island and we were able to add Roseate Tern, Gannet, and Puffin to the bird list.  Grey Seals were also seen.

Next stop was East Chevington where we spent an enjoyable time watching a female Hen Harrier hunting over the reedbed before spending time watching and listening to the Great Reed Warbler.  This latter bird was another UK tick for me and brought back happy memories of having watched these birds in Europe.  Because of the distance the full effect of the sound that this large warbler can make could not be fully appreciated.  The North Pool was quiet but it was enjoyable seeing two pairs of Great Crested Grebes, one of the pair carrying young.  A Little Grebe was heard and Sandwich Terns were bathing and large numbers of Cormorants were on the island.

Pignut

Dovesfoot Cranesbill

A walk was taken to Chevington Burn as we searched for more botanical interest.  The Bloody Cranesbill, Northumberland’s county flower was especially numerous and attractive.  We were studiously watched by the Belted Galloway cattle as we returned vis the dunes, and we assumed that these were being used to aid conservation.

Belted Galloway

Bloody Cranesbill

Bloody Cranesbill

Druridge Pools were quiet but we enjoyed the stop here and watched birds such as Avocet, Little Ringed Plover and Black Tailed Godwit.  The Willow Warblers and Sedge Warblers provided a nice sound scape and we found some attractive Vipers Bugloss along the path to the hides, and not far away from it a Small Skipper Butterfly.

Bladder Campion

Mouse-ear Hawkweed

By the time we reached Cresswell Pond the sea breezes were adding not a little coolness to the air.  Unusually the water was exceptionally low.  Birdlife initially looked minimal but our watch was rewarded by nice sightings of a Spoonbill which on this occasion was not asleep but feeding, a Little Gull and more Avocets.  The Avocet certainly must be one of our most attractive waders.

Then we were off with fingers crossed that the ice cream parlour was still open, before going for our mini twitch and the sighting of the Rose-Coloured Starling, which was a great way to end a long day.  I have not included all the birds seen today, and mention only a few of the plants.  A wonderful day of natural history.