Trip to Rutland, Suffolk and Norfolk (Part Two)

 Day Four.  We weren’t out quite as soon as yesterday morning, but considering it was Sunday we still had an early breakfast and were soon down on the shingle spit south of the town of Aldeburgh and walking along towards the Martello Tower at Slaughden and overlooking the  snake like River Alde.  Benjamin Britten’s Curlew River.  Yes, there are still Curlews present feeding, but probably far fewer than in Britten’s time.  Other waders too such as Redshank, Oystercatcher, Dunlin and Turnstone.  Little Egrets were about and we found Rock Pipit.  We were down there lapping up the quiet atmosphere long before most Sunday walkers were about.  As the morning went on we could hear the Rooks from a rather large rookery across the other side of the marsh and also the church bells from Aldeburgh town.  We had earlier talked of the loss of so many rookeries over the years.

Early morning at The River Alde

Slaughden Village was lost to the sea, but the impressive Martello Tower still stands and is now used for holiday accommodation.  It was built in 1810/12 as protection against Napoleonic invasion.  The narrow spit south of the tower leads to Orford Ness N N Reserve which is closed in winter, but in any case that particular pathway is closed to the public.  Unexploded ordnance I believe.

The Martello Tower

Having enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere of the River Alde area and our early morning walk we made off to the reed-beds and wetland at North Warren slightly north of Aldeburgh.  After a short walk, our big reward was the flocks of White Fronted Geese showing wonderfully well.  These birds always look to me as though someone has taken a paint brush to their bellies.  I know this is Sam’s favourite goose species.  The wetland held numerous waterfowl, but it was the whistling Wigeon which made themselves so evident.  Avocets were present.   As well as the star attraction, the White Fronted Geese, other geese seen today were Pink Footed Geese, Greylag Geese, Canada Geese, Barnacle Geese and Egyptian Geese.

Sadly,  after having enjoyed the walk and the sight and sounds of the waterfowl we needed to say goodbye to Aldeburgh and eventually Suffolk as we were now heading to Norfolk.  For the next two nights we would be staying in the Windmill at Cley, but we had much to do today before thinking of that.  We were going to be spending some time on the Norfolk Broads.

One of the highlights of our trip was the finding of a flock of wild swans, 3 Whooper and 19 Bewick Swans which we viewed from the roadside.  For as long as I’ve known Sam he has been keen to see Bewick Swans and this was a lifer for him.  It was good to be able to compare the two species side by side and to see them in numbers.  Sam and I have a great interest in the naming of birds, the Bewick Swan of course named after local man Thomas Bewick.  We know all the history connected to this and I will always look upon Bewick Swan as a species in it’s own right whatever the birding authorities say.

We next moved on to the reedbeds at St Benet’s Abbey.  I was surprised to see the size of the area that this medieval abbey once covered and had we had more time the area would have been worth exploring.  We did see the remains  of the gateway and the attached later Mill.  We found Chinese Water Deer in the surrounding area and of course Marsh Harriers and Common Buzzards amongst a variety of other species.  Water Rail was heard.  After our walk, dehydration and hunger suggested we needed   a pit stop before moving onto Hickling Broad, Stubbs Mill and the raptor roost.

The Windmill at Cley.  Our accommodation.

Today had been the most overcast of our days so by the time we reached Hickling Broad Centre the light was already dim.  I had been once before some years ago but needed to check on the direction of Stubbs Mill.  My request for information brought a very peculiar response from the guy in the centre.  It was if I were asking for the directions to the Holy Grail.  It wasn’t as if I was carrying weapons and in a hoodie, it was simply little old me.  Anyway, I did eventually gain a response, maybe the guy was just tired, and we set of towards Stubbs Mill.  Once at the roost viewing site with a half dozen other folk we spotted a Barn Owl hunting in the distance, numbers of Marsh Harrier and Sam picked up two Common Cranes deep in the reedbed, seen nicely through the scope and for a brief time dancing.  More Marsh Harriers began to fly in.  We left as it began to turn dark and on our return walk had a lovely sighting of a party of five Common Cranes flying in and later calling.  That was certainly another trip highlight.  Brilliant that this species is once more becoming ever more common in England.  We then set off on the hours drive to our Windmill accommodation at Cley.  And very nice accommodation it was.  Our window overlooked the river and reedbeds.

Dinner was taken at the near by pub where, when not eating, we engaged in conversation with a very friendly couple from Norfolk.  They had been out for the day, had a few drinks and so were staying unplanned overnight at the pub accommodation.  Hope they made it to work the next day without too much of a hangover!

Mammals seen today were, Chinese Water Deer, Muntjac Deer, Brown Hare,

Rabbit and Grey Squirrel.

Day five.  Began overcast, but the sun was soon out and the skies clear.

We began the day at Salthouse marshes and we were well rewarded.  The following waders were seen today, most of them if not all at Salthouse.  Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Grey Plover, Golden Plover, Lapwing, Ruff, Turnstone, Dunlin, Redshank, Black Tailed Godwit, Bar Tailed Godwit, Curlew, Common Snipe and Long Billed Dowitcher.

The Long Billed Dowitcher had been a target bird for us and initially proved difficult to find.  It had we were told been feeding close to the pathway but had been disturbed and flown off.  Eventually we found it in the distance by comparing its size and shape against the accompanying godwits.  On our return walk the Long Billed Dowitcher had returned to its preferred feeding area close to the pathway and allowed close examination.  Have to say thought, the Grey Plover is a cracking bird and we saw more of them late in the day.  Golden Plovers were seen in flight and in number as were the Lapwings that flashed light and dark in the bright sky.

Snow Bunting was another target bird today and as we walked behind the dunes along the pebbled area we were told where to find them and surely enough we did and had very close sighting of 60 Snow Bunting.  Neither of us have ever seen more than this in one flock. Skeins of Pink footed Geese were seen and heard in flight along with many small passerines including Stonechat, Skylark and Reed Bunting.

Kestrel.

Having briefly visited the market Town of Holt we looked in at Cley Spy to look at the optical equipment and took the chance to grab a bite to eat at a nearby café.  We then returned to our accommodation at the Windmill and walked from there out to the sea via a lovely walk through the reedbed areas.  By now the sun was out in in a clear blue sky.  Thankfully there was the odd seat available to take a short break.  This was a very rewarding walk that ended as the sunset behind ‘’our’’ windmill.  We had great sightings of a flock 500+ Brent Geese which occasionally lifted, a pair of Grey Partridges, Little Egrets, Grey Heron,   numerous Marsh Harriers, Common Buzzards, a very confiding female Kestrel on top of a post that was not fazed by us at all as we sat and watched it, a Peregrine Falcon in flight and then settled on the ground for a lengthy spell, and we heard the calling of Bearded Tits deep in the reeds.  Flocks of Golden Plover and Lapwing lifted continuously from the reserve, clearly aware of the presence of a Peregrine Falcon.

Welcome sweet eve thy gently sloping sky

& softly whispering wind that breath of rest

& clouds unlike what daylight galloped bye

Now stopt as weary huddling in the west

Each by the farewell of days closing eye

Lines from John Clare’s poem Sunset

We had coincidently timed the walk to catch the sunset behind the windmill.  What an atmosphere.  Unlike in John Clare’s poem there was neither a breath of wind nor any cloud.  We ate early at the pub again and had a relaxing evening.  Relaxing, apart from Sam being locked out of the accommodation.  I was just getting up to go and look for him, HONEST, when he got back in.

Still more to come in Part Three which will include our birdlist.