Elvis
Costello sang of it being a good year for the roses, well in my opinion
2020 with all its problems so far has if nothing else, been a good year for
the orchids. Sam and I had decided
that today was right to involve ourselves in a quest on the holy island of
Lindisfarne. It was to be a quest in
search of Epipactis sancta, more commonly known as Lindisfarne
Helleborine. We hoped also to find along
the way other wildflowers, including another of the genus Epipactis, the
attractive Marsh Helleborine.
The tower and house on the Snook
We knew we
could not take a sighting of the Lindisfarne Helleborine for granted even
though we had timed our journey to hit its peak flowering time. After all, there are very few specimens of
this plant on the island, its flowering time is short and weather can affect
the timing of this. On the plus side we
had time, enthusiasm and dedication.
We joined
the string of vehicles crossing the causeway before 1:00pm, and judging by this
traffic it seemed that the centre of the island was going to be heaving with
visitors, modern day pilgrims I suppose.
Thankfully, we weren’t going to the centre, but rather our quest was to
the western end of the Snook. Often, we
drive past this area in winter and head for our usual birdwatching haunts, when
usually the island is less frequented by people. Although in any event, we find
that most folk venture little further than the village and the castle. I would say at this point, it is only by
exploring the more remote areas of the island that you can claim to really know
it.
With car
parked on the Snook we ate some lunch whilst I thought of holy men illuminating
books, Viking marauders, lime burners, farmers and fishermen. It was dry and mild, but overcast with cloud
which was to occasionally break during our time here and give wonderful
lighting conditions and at times keeping us very warm.
Sometime
after leaving the car we looked up to find that we had been so engrossed in
identifying plants such as Sea Arrowgrass, Sea Plantain and Seaside Centaury
that we had barely left the carpark. We
continued our walk westwards.
Sea Arrow Grass
Sea Plantain
Seaside Centaury.
Various
Orchid species were soon showing well, Common Spotted, Northern Marsh, Pyramidal
and then Marsh Helleborines in numbers and then we found the elusive
Lindisfarne Helleborine. Our quest had
been successful and we could now relax and just enjoy all before us.
Pyramidal Orchid. The best of many seen, growing in shelter of what appeared to be old World War Two defence structure. Wonderfully lit, but I have not quite captured the beauty that I saw on the day.
One of many Northern Marsh Orchids, and many were in much better condition but by now my mind was on Helleborines.
Common Spotted Orchid
The
Lindisfarne Helleborine was first recorded on the island in 1958 and at that
time believed to be Epipactis dunensis, the Dune Helleborine. It wasn’t until the turn of the current
century that it was recognised as a species in its own right, and by some that
it had even evolved separately from Dune Helleborine and its variety Tyne
Helleborine. Lindisfarne Helleborine is
therefore endemic to the island. In
beauty it is not up to the standards of the Marsh Helleborine of which we found
many, but it is always nice to see a rarity.
Nice also, was the chance to point out the plant to a friendly couple
who we had got speaking to about other orchids.
Having left the carpark, all the other folk seen in the distance could
be counted on one hand, so we had no problem with social distancing.
Marsh Helleborine
Marsh Helleborine
Marsh Helleborine
We didn’t
ignore the butterflies and by now we had seen Small White, Common
Blue, Small Heath, Meadow Brown and Dark Green Fritillary. Bird watching today had no priority, but we
did hear Sandwich Tern and see the likes of Kestrel and Meadow
Pipit. As I was sitting in the Dunes
and picking off numerous heads of that damn invasive Pirri-pirri Bur we heard
fly overhead what sounded very like a Bee-eater! We didn’t see the bird so it will be one of
those ‘’we’ll never know moments’’ but we have seen and heard many
Bee-eaters on our travels in Europe and I trust Sam’s hearing skills, if not my own at times.
Lindisfarne Helleborine
Lindisfarne Helleborine. Not the most beautiful of orchids, but rare and interesting.
Walking
further into the dunes we were well rewarded with plant species including the
small Fairy Flax and the much large Vipers Bugloss. We listened to the distant haunting calls of
Grey Seals, and on our return saw many hundred laid out on the sands to the
south of the island.
Fairy Flax
Viper's Bugloss
Looking out
onto the long stretch of isolated sand it was obvious none of the crowds
visiting the centre of the island were venturing far. We saw only two people walking like
matchstick men and women close to the sea in the far distance, otherwise it was
completely deserted of humankind.
Deserted Sands
Purple-Milk Vetch
Thinking that
there may be plants on the edge of the dune area where it meets the sand, on
our return we walked along this edge but
found only grasses and the stump of a
tree, showing a face, partially carved we thought by human hand.
Self Heal
Silverweed
Eventually
back at the car I struggled with the Pirri-pirri again, eventually finished off
the remains of my lunch and we left the island to the masses and travelled
south.
We made a
stop at Bamburgh where we visited the grave of the Northumbrian naturalist and
artist Prideaux John Selby. Its rather
lost and weathered next to the grand, rather over ornate Victorian
memorial to Grace Darling. I wonder how
many tourists think she is buried here rather than some yards away. The Victorians didn’t get everything correct,
having built the original memorial in Portland stone it soon weathered and had
to be replaced by a new one built with Northumbrian Stone.
Eyebright
Meadowsweet
(All images taken on the Snook, Lindisfarne. Remember to click on them to up-size)
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