Ancient Yews and Calaminarian Grasslands

 The early morning rain had ceased as we drove towards St Cuthbert’s Church, Beltingham.  This Northumbrian church is of historical importance, but the reason for our visit was primarily to view the Ancient Yews in the grounds.  There are three Yews of considerable age and it was the Yew on the north side of the church that most drew our attention, an estimate of age most often given as 900-950 years, with other mind-boggling estimates of around 1,500 years and even 2,000+ years.  Even if the lower estimate is nearer the truth, this would make the Yew the oldest in Northumberland.  The younger Yews south of the church, whilst magnificent specimens in themselves, are thought to be about 500 – 600 years old.  I understand that in the recent past there were plans to examine scientifically all three Yews to attempt to prove or disprove a relationship between the three.

Ancient Yew and a not so ancient Sam.

We entered the grounds via the Lych-Gate after having noted numbers of Swifts and listening to the song of Song Thrush.  Lych stemming from the Old English or Saxon word lic, meaning corpse.  Prior to mortuaries existing and when most people died at home, the body would be taken to the Lych-gate and would be guarded by vigil watchers so that body snatchers were unable to approach and interfere before burial.  In more recent times the funeral possession would await at the lych-gate until the arrival of the priest.  We made for the most ancient of the Yews, passing on the way a Commonwealth War Grave and several sandstone tombstones which had been heavily eroded over many years.

Weathered Sandstone Grave

Ancient Yew

The ancient and hollow Yew is most impressive.   Yews contain poisons of course which  can be hallucinogenic and I warned Sam that I had read in Fred Hageneder’s book Yew A History that people have reported funny things happening as they stood under a Yew.  I breathed in heavily, but on this occasion nothing occurred.  We did think and discuss our thoughts about our place in time and what the surrounding area of Northumberland may have looked like when this tree was a mere sapling.  The tree is supported by at least three iron collars, and Hageneder expressed mixed feelings about the use of these implements.  Having taken in the atmosphere of the Yews we looked around the church grounds and checked out plants such as the area of Bluebells, a Flowering Currant, Wild Garlic, Marsh Marigold and Green Alkanet.  Sadly, the church remains locked and so a future visit is planned for further exploration.

Ancient Yew

Remains of Celtic Cross

Flowering Currant

We kept to our plan and next visited 2 areas along the South Tyne that include Calaminarian Grassland.  At our first stop we checked out plants along the roadside and then through woodland along the bank of the river before looking at the small area of the grassland which was our primary target.  The dull rather subdued lighting conditions seemed to increase the intensity of the botanical colour, and the air was filled with the honey like scent of Crosswort and other accompanying plants.   The song of Blackcap was especially noted and many more Swifts were counted.  The land was sodden following weeks of May showers, but the atmosphere was that of a spring day post rain, and we had the area to ourselves apart from meeting a local villager walking her patch.  Examination of the verges and woodland meant that the walk was taken at a slow pace.

Crosswort

Bluebells

Green Longhorn Moth

A male Orange Tip Butterfly seemed almost intoxicated whilst feeding on Forget-me-not and so allowed a photographic opportunity as did a rather stunning Green Longhorn Moth found on the information signage.  A Common Sandpiper was heard calling by the river.

Orange Tip Butterfly on Forgetmenot

I must confess that Calaminarian Grassland is something I had no knowledge of until Sam mentioned it recently and I have since read quite a lot about this unusual and rare habitat and have learnt much about it.  Calaminarian grassland is named after Viola calaminaria which grows on such metal rich soils in Europe although the plant is not found in the UK.  However about 30 percent of this European grassland is found here.  This type of grassland in Northumberland has developed on nutrient poor soils with high levels of toxic heavy metals associated with mine workings and where metals from mine wash have accumulated on river beaches and terraces.

Mountain Pansy

Although the vegetation is usually sparse in these areas there are specialist plants that have adapted and thrive here.  Plants we found in the two area we visited included Mountain Pansy, Thrift (thought to be a type adapted to the metals), Alpine Pennycress and Pyrenean Scurvy- grass all able to tolerate the conditions and are known as metallophytes.  Now that mining in the area has ceased the habitat is very much at risk and is shrinking due to leaching of the metals and changes in land use.  Some of the areas are now managed and often rely on grazing by rabbits and sheep to prevent scrub taking over.

Alpine Pennycress

Pyrenean Scurvygrass

Some years ago I visited the Keen of Hamar which is a calaminarian grass land on the Island of Unst, Shetland, which was a very stony area.  I didn't relise its significance at the time,  although I enjoyed its variety of plant life.  In the case of Keen of Hammer it is an area containing serpentine rock containing heavy metals so is not caused in the same manner as the Northumberland grassland.  I remember seeing a rare plant called Edmonston's Chickweed here, which I believe grows only on the island.  This was named after a local Scottish botanist, Thomas Edmonston of Unst, who was said to have great knowledge.  Sadly he died in his early twenties having mistakenly discharged a gun during a field expedition, and cutting short what could have been a great career.  Note to self...read more about him.

Having examined the areas we decided to revisit at a latter date as there are other plants that we wish to find but our day was not over yet as we called in on my brother for a coffee and a chat before visiting Grindon Lough and surrounding area.

Scots Pine

Red Campion

By now bright light lit the wild countryside and a Skylark was in full song and ascending as I stepped out of the car at the Lough.  After so much rain this month I was surprised to see the water level of the Lough so low.  The most interesting bird finds here were calling Dunlin and Little Ringed Plover.

We also stopped at the old, renovated Lime Kiln to take some landscape images.  We found another interesting area for plants and have noted this for a later visit.  Water Avens grew nicely near the road and young Jackdaws called from a nest in the Lime Kiln wall.  We noticed the adult bird anxious to return to the hungry chicks so we did not hang around too long.  As soon as we were back in the car the adult Jackdaw came to the nest.  A Kestrel was seen close by in the trees.

Water Avens

We drove home along on what was a wonderful spring evening, clear light showing the area at its best and with the distant verdant fields occasionally broken by the brilliant yellow of Oil Seed Rape and the roadside also yellow with the flowering Gorse.

Evening Light

On arrival home we realised we had been out for nine and a half hours on what had been a most interesting and informative trip taken at a leisurely pace in great habitat.

 

Desert Island Bird Sounds

 It is more years than I care to remember since I wrote a blog entitled Desert Island Books.  In any event, I have read a great many books since then so my chosen eight would be rather different now.  I must give the idea a reprise, but not just yet.  Instead, I have chosen eight bird sounds I would take along with me.  Now, getting this choice down to eight sounds was no easy task.  I decided on some tight criteria to help in the choosing.  In short only local birds would be included so that ruled out some memorable experiences on foreign trips, not least being perhaps the most memorable, a Thrush Nightingale of an evening in Scandinavia.  Each sound had to really mean something to me personally and if not a commonly heard sound, at least it’s not to be a rarely heard one.   I decided also to rule out seabirds as I’m hoping that my desert island will be surrounded with such birds anyway.

If you are not a Radio Four listener, and surely many of my erudite readers will be, and have not listened to Desert Island Discs, this blog title may not mean a great deal to you.  I hope you continue to read and enjoy anyway.

Blackbird

1.  My first choice is the melodic song of the Blackbird.  I have known this song since childhood when even in the East End Newcastle there was a significant dawn chorus in the 1950s, which in truth was rather annoying at the time, as I tried to get extra shut eye before getting up for school.  I am happy to say that even now I rarely go a day without seeing and hearing Blackbirds, whether it be song or alarm calls.  I have wonderful memories of listening to Blackbird song on atmospheric walks as dawn broke and light replaced semi-darkness.  Even more clearly in mind is the song I hear at home in early spring in the morning, but more especially the evening as the bright light is slowly replaced by the dimness of dusk and late evening.

Pink footed Geese

2.  I love bright winter days because of the sharpness and clarity of the light, and perhaps the most evocative sound of winter is that of calling Pink footed Geese, as skeins of them paint letters in the clear azure sky.  There is little better on a winters day than standing on frost coated hard ground, layered up to protect from the biting cold and listening to geese as they fly overhead and across wide open landscapes.  My greatest memories are local ones in Northumberland, and in Dumfries and Galloway.

Baldric the Buzzard, once resident at Muncaster Castle, Cumbria.

3.  Places of wild look and open space are my favourite and I associate the Common Buzzard with such areas.  Although quite commonly seen now this bird will never fail to excite me and the melancholic mewing of these birds is a sound I would not want to miss.

4.  I have rarely missed a visit to Slaley Forest over a good number of years since my first visit with a group of local Bird Forum members some years ago.  Whatever happened to such gatherings?  I remember one memorable evening when a female group member, who will remain anonymous, offered to remove her bra and wave it to attract the birds.  Perhaps the prospect of midge bites made her have second thoughts! The visit was made to find Nightjars, and we had success, and I rarely have I failed to find the birds since.  There is something special about the almost mechanical churring which begins as the darkness of the night sets in and silence takes over.  I have experienced wonderful evenings with special friends being attacked by insects on balmy summer evenings, and one or two cold wet ones too, listening for the churring to begin and eventually being rewarded by the sight of a Nightjar hunting.  I would always be happy to accept no sighting, as it is the sound that excites me, and the wonderful view across Northumberland and into Cumbria as the sun disappears below the horizon that I so much enjoy.

Bullfinch

5.  Another melancholic sound to my ears is that of the Bullfinch.  This song is so easy to miss and is best heard very early in the year when there is little competition from other species.  At this time of year, it signals the spring is not far away even if the conditions of winter still predominate.  A beautiful, quiet and almost mournful song.

6.  It is not easy attempting to choose the sound of a warbler but I decided that it is the simple and short song of the Willow Warbler that I would most like with me.  For many years I have listened for the Willow Warblers song on patch, a sign that spring is truly with us.  It is another sound that I also associate with walking in our wilder areas.

7.  Alone on a desert island would I think require me to have something which would give an uplift to the spirit and I can think of nothing better than the song of the Skylark.  Mentioned in poems by such great poets as Shelley, Meredith, Hughes and Clare and the subject of The Lark Ascending, music by Ralph Vaughn Williams makes it good enough for me.

8.  Thankfully we still have a few Curlews in Northumberland, although it is a bird very much at risk.  Its haunting call would remind me of my home birding area, and I would not want to be without it.

Now I could think of another eight birds sounds and then another eight quite easily, but these are my top choice.

My book choice is just as difficult, but will be the complete works of the poet John Clare which would give me a wealth of pleasure and discovery.  My special item would of course be my binoculars.

If a giant wave came along and washed away all but one of the sounds, without any question the one I would rescue would be the song of the Blackbird.   

 

                                           

Birding South East Northumberland

 We never tire of visiting the coastal area of South East Northumberland as there is so much on offer to those interested in nature, and fortunately the area is generally not overcrowded.  The favourable conditions today did see folk around in some number and several of them were bird watchers.  Our first short stop was at the Queen Elizabeth 11 Country Park to look at the reported Whooper Swan.  We thought it would be an inured or sick bird and it did seem to lack some balance on the water.  The morning air and wind carried a chill and we were soon back into the car and off.

Next stop was at Widdrington Pool where it is rarely warm.  Oddly enough, today it was warm and without wind.  The birding highlights here were two Ruddy Shelduck, two pairs of Great Crested Grebe, one of the pair displaying, Common Buzzard overhead and a distant high Sparrowhawk.  Numbers of Reed Warblers were singing, and their song was to be with us throughout our visit.  Blackcap, Common Whitethroat, Willow Warbler and Chiffchaff were also present.  A Water Rail was heard.  Ruddy Shelduck are especially attractive birds in my opinion.  I well remember watching one of these birds at Prestwick Carr.  This bird was even discussed on the BBC Bird Forum which has not existed for years, so this sighting must have been at least sixteen years ago.  Time flies as well as Ruddy Shelducks.   This bird was recorded at various sites in the region and spent some time on Killingworth Lake before disappearing south into Durham.  I wonder if any readers remember seeing it?  Ruddy Shelducks are of course more often as not, escapes from captivity when seen in western Europe.  Very nice birds all the same, and I am pleased to have recorded truly wild birds in Romania.  To return to the BBC Forum, it was a very disorganised affair and although attracting some very keen naturalists who were keen to learn, it also attracted it fair share of keyboard warriors simply out to wind folk up.    It was an introduction in my case to this type of media and where I learned quickly how to deal with troublemakers on the internet.  Social media in the main is not my thing.  Give me personal face to face chat or a good book anytime.

Proud Parents of Druridge Pools

As our birding had been rained off on a previous visit to the area, we next made for East Chevington.  The northern pool was quiet, but still held an odd Goldeneye.  There were plenty of warblers about and the unmistakeable burst of a call from a Cetti’s Warbler was the highlight.  We managed to see the bird briefly as it flew into the reedbed and eventually back again, continuing to call from different areas.  There were few terns about during our visit but we did see Common Tern and eventually Sandwich Tern.  We walked to Chevington Burn and enjoyed a brief sighting of Marsh Harrier and enjoyed the song from Skylarks.  A nice male Stonechat was seen along the way as was Reed Bunting.  We took note of botanical interest and returned via the dunes which we have down for a later visit when more botanical interest will be on show.   A short break was taken at the car for lunch.  I had remembered the sandwiches this time!

I wanna Exmoor Pony!

Our next stop was Druridge Pools.  We were noticing during our trip a general lack of Hirundines, although a few Swallows were seen.  Highlights at Druridge Pools were Egyptian Goose, Avocet, Dunlin, a white semi ruffed Ruff and a sighting of Grasshopper Warbler.  Sam Had been picking up the distant reeling of the latter species throughout the day, but my now less sensitive ears had missed that.  It is always nice to see the Exmoor Ponies at Druridge.  I have asked Sam to ensure that if he ever buys me a pony, that it is an Exmoor Pony.  Curlews were heard.

Distant Avocet at Druridge Pools

We made a brief stop at Cresswell where it was incredibly quiet.  We didn’t bother walking to the hide on this occasion, but noted the Avocets and a few other species before we made off towards home.  A planned stop at Newbiggin was postponed until a later date.

A particularly good day in good conditions, and with some unexpected sightings. 

Castle Eden Dene

The evening before our visit to Castle Eden Dene, I had a long and close encounter with a Hedgehog, which I was able to watch through the patio window unknown to the subject and at times with only inches between me and it.  Once a regular visitor to the garden, such visits are rarities now reflecting the national decrease in numbers of this species.  This one did seem to know its way around, so I am hoping it is staying beneath the bushes at the back of the garden.  Perhaps my best ever watches of this species, as it sniffed and scratched the entire time that it searched for food.  It seemed in excellent condition.

My encounter with the Hedgehog reminded me that it is often the commoner smaller things that offer the most enjoyment.  During visits to southern Africa, I did the usual safari trips to watch the larger mammals, and of course birds.  Large mammals are exciting to watch of course, but one thing that stays firmly in my mind was when we ditched the transport and went on a walk in Northern Zambia in search of smaller flora and fauna.  The walk was only momentarily disturbed when our Zambian guide informed us that we were now standing at the spot where he had been bitten by a Black Mamba.  I have no phobia of snakes, but I did not fancy a Black Mamba for company.  Our guide had radioed for help as soon as bitten and was told help was on the way and not to panic!  Fortunately, he was no Corporal Jones.  Fortunately help and antivenom was given quickly.  Collapse can take place within forty-five minutes after being bitten and death can occur within hours if not treated appropriately.  I was confident there are no Black Mambas in Castle Eden Dene and so our visit was to be a relaxing experience.

Wild Garlic

Garlic Mustard

We arrived at the dene quite early in the day hoping to miss the showers forecast to arrive from the west.  A small field near to the carpark was a carpet of Cowslip.  Our first sightings as we took the steep pathway down into the dene were a Grey Squirrel and Great Spotted Woodpecker.  It was to be the flora that took most of our attention.  Much of the area was covered by mats of Wild Garlic.  Now, I believe some folk like the scent of this plant but I cannot understand why, as I have never liked the smell or taste of garlic.  The flower is extremely attractive, especially when seen in close up.  Garlic Mustard was also to be found and I initially got the two plants mixed up in my mind.  As we continued our plant hunt a Frog hopped out of sight and a Rabbits ears appeared close by us.

Water Avens

Our walk was to be a slow but interesting one, as we examined the flora in a damp and cold atmosphere.  We wondered was the Currant shrub Redcurrant or Downy Currant?  In fact, further research proved it to be a sterile Mountain Currant.  All three species are represented in the dene.  A favourite plant of mine, Water Avens was there in great number.  Harts tongue Fern and other ferns grabbed our attention, as did numbers of the Lords and Ladies plant.  The Harts Tongue fern commonly named because of its tongue like shape and hart being the name of male Red Deer.  These ferns and the the emerging Great Horsetails added to the wild feel of the area.  Before we had reached the foot of the pathway we had seen patches of Golden Saxifrage and Wood Forgetmenot, at least two species of Violet, Barren Strawberry, White Dead Nettle, Bugle, and Bluebell.

Water Avens

Wood Forgetmenot

Mountain Currant (sterile)

Once at the foot of gorge the steepness of the sides became apparent.  Our minds pondered on the process of this gorge being slowly cut out of the magnesian limestone over the past millennia.  The magnesian Limestone had formed on the bed of an inland sea during the Permian geological period.  Trees that surrounded us included many Yews, Oaks, Wych Elms, Ash and Hazel.  I found later that one thought on the origin of the name ‘Eden’ is thought to have derived from the earlier Yoden or Yew Dene.

Wych Elm

Castle Eden Dene

We took one of the narrower and quieter routes and as the sun came out so did the bees and butterflies, the latter included Large White, Green Veined White, Orange Tip and Peacock Butterfly.  More plants were found including Primrose, Daisy, Wood Sorrel, Wood Anemone and a wall of Golden Saxifrage on the side of the gorge over hanging the burn.  There was little water in the burn and I believe it often dries up completely in summer months.  However, there was enough water to offer the relaxing soundscape by which I could have happily laid down and taken a nap.

Castle Eden Dene

Golden Saxifrage

Fern sp

Included in the soundscape was the song and calls of birds such as Wren, Dunnock, Robin, Song Thrush, Blackbird, Blackcap, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff and Nuthatch.  I suggested that a Dawn Chorus walk here would be special.  Although, on this occasion I did not suggest we get up at three in the morning to get down here to take part!  Two Common Buzzards circled high above us in the warm thermals and showed wonderfully well in the now bright clear light.

Green Veined White Butterfly on Wild Garlic

The bird species of the day for me was a pair of calling Marsh Tits which we watched gathering moss and lichen from the trees to add to a nest.  This pair were seen at their best in good spring lighting conditions and so looked in pristine condition.  We sat in the sun foe a while to take in our surroundings before heading back for our climb out of the dene, and it was a climb.  I was cream crackered when we reached the car.  In truth, I was cream crackered halfway up the pathway.  I had forgotten left my sandwiches in the fridge so perhaps I can use that as a rather weak excuse.  I soon got my breath back and watched a Tree Sparrow in the carpark.  A Kestrel was seen during the return journey, during which the heavens opened and rain lashed down for maybe twenty minutes.

Harts Tongue Fern

Dogs Mercury

A great day at Castle Eden Dene and I think I managed to avoid putting my feet into dog faeces.  Yes, some dog walkers seem to think it unfair that they are requested to clear up after their pets! 

Blackthorn

I am sure the enticement of birds, botany and atmosphere will lure us back soon.

Barren Strawberry

Emerging Great Horsetail

Having completed the blog I looked out into the garden and found the Hedgehog again.  It was still scratching and seeming to find plenty of food.  Natures little things continue to please.