15th
Sept. With it being a Saturday and the
tides giving the opportunity of a full day on the island we ought not to have
been surprised at how busy the road was leading to the causeway, and we found
the car-park almost full on arrival. Sam
and I had spotted a few birds on the journey north including Lapwings, Kestrel and on approaching the causeway, Common Buzzard. Our plan
to park at the start of the causeway was thwarted as we found the parking area
is now out of bounds and the entrance blocked by a large rock, and other space
was already taken up. Nevertheless, we
enjoyed the drive over to the island despite little sign of birdlife. The sun was now breaking through the cloud
giving that ethereal feel to the area that often exists and it is unsurprising
that many folk feel a spiritual air to the whole area of Lindisfarne. Once we were striding out on the island we
found despite a southerly wind, the autumnal atmosphere was chilled and I was
glad to have put on that thicker jumper before leaving home.
Painted Lady and Red Admiral Butterfly
As always it
was easy to get away from the crowd who in the main seemed to be heading in the
direction of the castle, which certainly looks grand again now that the
scaffolding has been removed. We headed
for one of our favourite viewing areas and had it all to ourselves the entire
time we spent there. A Willow Warbler was soon found. Grey
Seals were laid out on the sands in two very large clusters, with other
scattered around and land and in the water, some of them tussling together in
pairs. I don’t think I have ever heard
the calling of the Grey Seals so
well as I did today. The wolfish,
haunting and melancholic sounding song filled the chilled air and made for an
unusual atmosphere. It is little wonder
that the ‘selkie’ is the subject of
so much myth and legend. Adding to the
atmosphere was a skein of between 50 to 60 calling Pink footed Geese flying in perfect aerodynamic formation above
our heads. There were also the calls
from many waders in the bay which included Oystercatcher,
Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Turnstone, Redshank, Curlew and Bar-tailed Godwit. Two Golden
Plover flew from behind our backs to join them. Bar-tailed
Godwit were about in very good numbers.
Through the telescope we were able to pick up hundreds of Brent Geese at distance towards Fenham
Flats. Swallows and Sand Martins
flew in small numbers and there were several Red breasted Mergansers and Eider
Duck on the water, the latter very appropriately swimming across from the
area of St Cuthbert’s Island.
Red Admiral Butterfly
Painted Lady Butterfly
As we moved
on having seen not a single fellow human in the area I couldn’t help but wonder
how many of the many visitors to the island today would hear the Grey Seals calling, or perhaps even see
them!
Red Admiral Butterfly
Red Admiral Butterfly
We wandered
through the village towards the ‘Vicar’s’
Garden where we found only a singing Robin,
before we took the path over the Heugh towards the harbour. From this point onwards, we were to find
little in the way of birdlife on the island!
We took a slight diversion to look at the ongoing archaeological dig
near the Priory. I found later that
there is quite a bit of information about this dig on the web and it’s though
that the findings are possibly/probably the remains of the original Lindisfarne
Priory, the present one dating back to the Norman Period. We found that two of the diggers were
presently cleaning down human skeletal remains.
The skull, femur and I think, what was part of the rib cage, were
clearly seen. I found it quite mind
blowing to think that this skeleton may be from the Anglo-Saxon Period and we
could be standing on the exact spot where the Lindisfarne Gospels were
written. I’m mindful that the skeleton
was once a human being with dreams just like ourselves and I wonder what he (we
are sure it was a ‘he’) would make of
us all now? Whatever the final decision
as to age of the skeleton is, there are many years of history between it and
ourselves, but I always feel it is easier to feel closer to the past than it is
the future.
Painted Lady and Red Admiral Butterfly
Having
walked to the harbour and finding a few waders, but nothing new apart from at
some point finding a White Wagtail, we adjourned for
lunch in the village pub before continuing our walk, this time along the lonnen. The lonnen was extremely quiet as was the
rest of the walk past the pool and hide.
We barely saw a bird until we were up to the dunes and found a male Stonechat and watched a Kestrel at some
distance. The pool held Little Grebe, Moorhen and Mute Swans and we were able to get
closer to the Kestrel. The highlight of the walk was another skein
of Pink footed Geese flying south
down the coastline. It occurred to us
that it was possible that they had not long left Iceland. Looking across to the Farne Islands we found
the light made it look as though each island was floating on a bed of
nothingness. There was of course the usual exciting view down the coast with
‘castles in the air’.
Small White Butterfly
The
afternoons walk was simply not about birds, but some very nice butterflies made
up for this. A particular patch on the
lonnen held 10+ Red Admiral Butterflies and a Painted Lady Butterfly which looked as though they were feeding
before migrating as they seemed to be intoxicated (they were intoxicating to
watchers) from the flowers and pretty much unaware of our presence allowing a
good photographic opportunity. I find
that it isn’t that often that you get such opportunities in this part of the
world. Along with them were Small White, Peacock and Small Tortoiseshell Butterflies. We spoke to several passers-by who all
stopped to take a close look. I was
quite surprised to find that no one knew the species of butterfly that they
were looking at. They will now! Our most interesting chat of the day was to a
lady visitor from Australia who’s grand-father left Newcastle, I think she said
in 1919, and set up a farm in Australia.
The lady explained he had left because of lack of work in the Northeast
of England at the time and it had been very tough work beginning farming on
rough
ground. I was perspiring at the thought of it. I really was perspiring by now!
Small Tortoiseshell Butterfly
When we left the island, we found the area on both sides of the causeway lacked birds. Our stop at Budle Bay didn’t provide the rewards that we had found last week as the tide today was so far out, but we did find many Pink footed Geese in the distance.