16th-20th
July. Unavoidable incidents made for a
delay to my trip over the border, but all good things are worth waiting for and
my few days of birding and culture were eventually done under clear skies and
sunshine. By, did it get hot at times.
16th
July. The train from Newcastle to
Carlisle went at a snail’s pace because of rail works, but I needn’t have
worried about catching the onward train to Dumfries as it wasn’t operating at
all. I was assured of good sightings of Common Buzzard as I sat back on the
replacement bus service which included a tour around Annan, a rather nice town
I thought as I breathed in diesel fumes.
I met up with Sam on arrival and we made for Kippford situated on the
Urr Estuary where I was to stay for the next few days. A hearty meal at one of the local pubs
overlooking the bay was enjoyed before we set off for the evening. It was my first visit to this village, but
hopefully not my last. Red Squirrel had already been added to
the list as we saw one leaving a local garden.
Lighthouse at Mull Of Galloway
Despite the
clock ticking it was a warm evening with good light so we had plenty of time
left for exploration and began at Orchardton Tower, a well preserved 15th
century circular tower house. Having
climbed to the top and taken a good look around we headed off towards Balcary
Bay and Cliffs. This proved to be an
excellent walk in another area new to me.
I spotted numbers of houses that I coveted. There were great views from
the cliffs across the Solway and Irish Sea to the fells of Lakeland, St Bee’s
Head and the Isle of Man. I even found my
cousin’s old cottage on the cliff edge near St Bees Head. Had it not been for heat haze I’m sure we
could have picked out individual folk over a distance of about 20 miles away. On the climb up the cliff path we found some
interesting plant life including Common
Rock Rose, Wild Thyme and Devil’s
Bit Scabious. Bird species of the
day was a pair of nesting Black
Guillemot in a recess on the cliff side.
Other birds seen included Rock
Pipit, Kittiwake, Fulmar, Cormorant, Guillemot, Sandwich Tern and Kestrel. Whilst the Black Guillemots were the bird of the day, the sighting of the day
had to be the large flock of Common Scoter in the Solway. There seemed to
be no end to the extent of the flock and we were looking at a number in four
figures rather than three. I’ve no doubt
this is the highest number of this species I’ve ever personally recorded and it
was quite a sight. As the light began to
fade a little it was time to make our way back down the narrow
cliff footpath and head back to Kippford.
It had been a great beginning to the trip.
Harebells at Mull of Galloway
17th
July. We were up and ready to leave
quite early and we were under clear blue skies and already warm as we made off
towards The Mull of Galloway. A Red Kite was seen early on our journey. Our first cultural stop along the way was
made at Cairn Holy Chambered Cairns, which are very interesting Neolithic
burial cairns. We spent some time here
examining the site and taking in the view over Wigtown Bay. There was a gent there taking measurements
and notes and when he gave me a riddle to solve concerning the solstice etc and
I began to think I’d dropped into a remake of the ’Hobbit’. Being no Billbo Baggins I left the talking to
Sam. We then made off towards Wigtown in
search of books. Wigtown was designated
Scotland’s National Book Town in 1998.
In one of the bookshops (there didn’t seem to be that many) Sam got his
eye on a book about the ‘Longest Day’ on the top shelf of the World War 11
books. We asked if we could have a look
at it. The young lady brought the steps
and said she wasn’t happy using them, which Sam and I saw the funny side
of. Yours truly climbed them. The book wasn’t that good so Sam climbed up
to put it back. Just goes to show ‘you
can’t judge a book by its cover’. There
appeared to be no New Naturalist books so we were soon off to the Rhins and
Mull of Galloway.
It's a few years now since I had the pleasure to stand and
overlook the Solway from the Mull of Galloway so I was eager to get back and on
this occasion we were also able to view the area from the top of the
lighthouse, after a chat with the assistant who had welcomed us. She wa originally from the Northeast of
England and I made the fatal error of calling her a Geordie when in fact she
was a Mackem. We had expected lots of
butterflies but saw very few, once again underlying the fact that it has been a poor year for them. We saw
White species, Common Blue, Ringlet, Meadow Brown and Red Admiral. There was
certainly lots of Birds-foot Trefoil, and
Sea Campion and Harebell were among other plants seen. Birds seen included Fulmar, Gannet, Shag, Cormorant, Kestrel, Kittiwake, Puffin, Guillemot, Razorbill and
Raven. A Wheatear was seen with a juvenile bird in the exact same spot as I
had seen this species on my last visit.
Bird of the visit was without doubt Hooded
Crow, not a common bird for this area.
It was made even better by the fact that we saw Hooded Crow with Carrion
Crow and an intermediate bird. We
spent a good bit of time in this area, stood close to the most southerly point
of Scotland, checked out the foghorn and enjoyed the sights of Luce Bay. The weather remained perfect throughout the
day. The tar near the RSPB site was
melting and although a hot day I do think it was probably a fault in the tar
rather than the heat which had been the main cause of this. A
Brown Hare was recorded at some point during our journey today.
We stopped off at a busy Portpatrick where we found only one
pair of Black Guillemot in the
harbour wall and took the chance to catch a bite of dinner. It was getting hotter. Sam took a drive through Gate House of Fleet where we photographed a Grey Heron in a tree over the pond and where the
early evening reflections were wonderful (I think that was today!). We then
drove over the higher road to Lauriston whilst taking in the scenery.
Evening at Threave
We weren’t finished yet and we drove down to Threave and
walked to the castle, the area where Sam is presently employed. Threave Castle is on an island in the River
Dee and the castle was the idea of Archibald the Grim. I think I’ve met one or two of his ancestors
whilst birding! We were hoping for
Ospreys and Peregrine Falcons. We found
one of the juvenile Ospreys on the
nest and soon after its sibling on a tree nearby. The second bird was soon in flight. There was much calling of Ospreys and Peregrine Falcons and also Redpolls which were in the trees close by us and showing well on
occasions. Greylag Geese and Oystercatcher
provided background sounds. Are there
many places where you can stand and listen to both the calls of Ospreys and Peregrines at the same time?
I think not. Both species have
had successful breeding years in the area.
(I’m giving nothing away here as it is all public knowledge and
encouragement is given to folk to go and view them). Whilst the Peregines could be heard I thought
we weren’t going to see them, but just as we were getting ready to pack in for
the night as the sun sunk down towards the horizon, the female Peregrine Falcon was found on the
castle wall and we had excellent telescope views of it.
The evening at Threave will stay with me for a long time, as
will the entire day which had been a long and rewarding one of 14 hours on the
go with just an odd break to eat and drink.
There were many more bird species seen of course. Part two to come.