13th June.
I am now inclined to join any group trip only if the venue offers
something special and I have to say St Abbs, or more precisely the sea bird
colonies and cliffs of St Abbs Head are one of my favoured visits. Thankfully the heavy rains of other areas did
not touch us throughout the day and temperatures varied from cool on the open
cliff tops to warm in more sheltered areas.
Although overcast it was a perfect day for walking, watching and
listening. I soon made a determined
effort to disengage form the main group and headed towards the cliffs with a
small group of keen participants. St
Abbs Head is a National Nature Reserve and was formed by a series of volcanic
eruptions.
St Abbs
The overcast conditions suggested that butterfly viewing
would be limited and so it proved, although I did get my eye on a Common Blue Butterfly at an early point
of the walk and I only managed to add Green-veined
White Butterfly to a rather sparse list today, although I understand
another participant had what from the description appeared to be a Small Copper
Butterfly and a Red Admiral Butterfly. Brown Hare was seen before we began to
a climb towards the cliffs, along with the like of Goldfinch and a Coal Tit. I had seen amongst other species, four Kestrels, Common Buzzard, Shelduck and Lapwing
on the journey north.
I was soon high enough to look southwards and admire the
picturesque village of St Abbs, formerly known as Coldringham Shore. The present name is derived from St Abbs
Head, the rocky promontory north of the village that we were heading
towards. The name St Abbs is itself
derived from St Aebbe. The area off
shore of the village is a very popular diving spot as it provides clear water
and spectacular underwater scenery.
There is a double archway just 50 metres from shore known as Cathedral
Rock. The area became the first
Voluntary Marine Reserve in Britain
in 1984 with input from David Bellamy…now that’s a name from the past. David Bellamy was once a TV regular, but I
understand some of his views concerning climate change do not go down
well. I’m never the less grateful that
he led me into exploring some natural history issues many years ago and I have
his book Botanic Man from 1978. Perhaps
his views are contrary to those
general held, but I have no problem with a person who sticks to views that are earnestly held and who doesn’t
court popularity by altering them so as to follow the majority view, as there
is far too much of the latter in life.
My interest today was really as much pointed towards taking
in the rock formations as it was the sea birds, although we were soon watching
groups of Gannets, generally flying
south, from Bass Rock, and the colonies of Fulmar,
Shag, Cormorant, Kittiwake, Fulmar
Guillemot and Razorbill. The colonies did not look to be as busy as on
past visits and others agreed, although I accept the memory plays strange
tricks. I certainly believe that there
were far fewer Kittiwakes. The occasional Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Yellowhammer and Linnet were seen on our walk towards the lighthouse. No Peregrine Falcons were seen, but a pair of
Kestrels entertained as we had
lunch. No Puffins either. The forms and hues of the rock formations
took my attention as I ate my sandwiches and also watched the nearby Fulmars and Kittiwakes continually taking to the air. As we moved off after lunch a Stoat was seen running along the cliff
top.
Kittiwake
The Rabbit on
steroids took up as much attention as the Stoat and Brown Hare had done. It seemed to be a massive beast and we
decided that it may have been a cross between a domestic and wild rabbit such
was its strange look.
Texture and colour
We walked back via Mire Loch which is a man made freshwater
Loch in an area that had once been marsh lying along the fault between the
volcanic rock of St Abbs Head and the sedimentary rock of the inner
mainland. To be honest I could have
spent a whole day in this interesting little area. I did have time to search for Northern Brown
Argus, but without success. I do think
we were in an early period for this butterfly to be on the wing so perhaps this
and the fact it was so over cast didn’t help. I am surprised
that we saw none at all. We did have
song from Sedge Warbler (a snatch
only), Common Whitethroat, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff,
numerous Song Thrushes, Chaffinch, Dunnock, Goldfinch and Linnet. Birds on the loch
included little Grebe, Mallard, Tufted
Duck, Moorhen and Coot. Botanical interest included Rock Rose, Wild Thyme and Northern Marsh Orchid. There was plenty of Thrift along the
walk. The sun almost broke through the clouds
as we relaxed in this area and there was enough brightness to show off a
stunning Yellowhammer at its best.
At the loch
The return walk was done at pace, I think because by now
some were smelling the aroma of tea and coffee!
The pace was slowed somewhat by the climb we faced. I’m sure this climb is getting steeper on
each visit. We had seen no Puffins but
there was certainly plenty of ‘puffing’.
A Common Seal was spotted
close to the foot of the cliffs whilst Swallows
and House Martins flew
overhead. Only two Large Black-backed Gulls
were seen all day and I wondered if they were controlled in this area.
Cliffs north of St Abbs Head
We were back in plenty of time and I admit I headed to the
village for a reviving drink. The café
was doing a roaring trade and no sooner had we placed our order and found a
seat outside when the place was closed owing to a shortage of crockery.
It began to turn very cold now and I wasn’t the only one
feeling the drop in temperature. As I
awaited my tea and crispy mars cake we watched a Herring Gull come to the next table and swallow at least two
plastic sachets before getting stuck into what appeared to be remains of jam or
perhaps tomato sauce. This particular
bird seemed to be thriving and perhaps challenging the giant Rabbit for sheer muscle, but I can’t
imagine that its liking for the plastic sachets were going to do it anything
but harm in the long run. On a serious
note, the plastic waste on this planet is doing great harm to our wildlife.
Refreshed we walked back to the coach and heard Blackcap song along the way. Another excellent day in excellent
surroundings with some interesting chat.
Perhaps a bit too much chat in my opinion, as I like to remind folk that
listening is a skill too! Someone had
checked something on their mobile phone which suggested that we had walked over
seven miles. It didn’t seem to be that
far to me, but I didn’t bother to argue with modern technology.